Vice Style

Michael Mayren focuses his camera on the sort of guys that most people would either be too scared to make eye contact with in the street, or—in the case of a lot of gay fashion guys—stare at so longingly they would risk having their face kicked in.

Growing up on a council estate in Bolton, near Manchester, Mayren was surrounded by those boys. Rather than seeing normal working class lads as being some exotic social stereotype to ironically document, he started taking their portraits simply because he wanted to represent the guys he knew, and in some way, himself.

While the subjects in Mayren's photographs might look rough, the pictures show a lot of character and aren't hugely posed. He mainly shoots guys that he finds on the street or in shops, because to him, "models aren't that real". Recently, Mayren has begun to shoot fashion for the likes of Vanity Teen, designer Courtney Mc, and ourselves.

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Michael Vs illustrator Stone And Spear.

Vice: Why photography?
Michael Mayren: My mum was doing a photography degree when I was in my early teens and she gave me her old Olympus OM10, so I started playing around with that taking photos of trees, and stuff. I was way too shy to approach people when I was younger. I still use the same camera now, actually.

What was it like being a creative kid growing up in Bolton? Did you get grief?
I didn’t really mix with kids my age. My mum is pretty young so I just used to hang around with her and her mates mainly. I don’t think kids at school really knew that much about me.

Did where you grow up influence what you take photographs of now?
Definitely. I’m inspired by realness and stuff around me more than anything. Most of the lads I grew up with look like the kind of guys that I photograph now.

Pictures from Chav.

You recently made an amazing book of portraits called Chav. Where was that shot?
Mainly little northern towns - Oldham, Stockport, Bury, Bolton, and a few other places.

What made you want to do it?
I wanted accurately record how northern boys look today and have something cool to look back on when the whole chav thing has died out or evolved into something else. I was a bit dubious about calling it Chav because I didn’t want it to come across as offensive or a piss-take, but it seemed like the only thing that worked as the title.

Do you think it is something that is dying out?
Not really. But when I was younger the kids were all wearing fake stuff. Paul & Shark and Burberry check - no one dresses like that anymore, unless they’re from Blackpool. I think when R&B became really commercial it changed the way kids dressed.

What do you think it's going to evolve into?
It’s hard to tell. I think these kids are mainly influenced by music and what’s going on around them and that is definitely always changing.


From Michael's online diary.

What makes you wanna take someone's picture?
If it’s just a portrait shot in the street, usually just the way they look and dress. If it’s for an editorial I like to photograph guys that are a bit cocky or arrogant. If someone's character comes through it makes for a lot more interesting photo.

Would you say you admire these guys?
I don’t know about that, but I have admiration for the attitude. On a more personal level, I think it’s pretty sad how hard it is for some of them to find jobs or get onto courses, but it is impressive how they stay really positive about it. I recently met some MCs, who were so passionate about their rapping - stuff like that is admirable. It must take a lot to keep focused on something when you get so many knock-backs in life from a young age.

As well as shooting these lads documentary style, the same casting appears in your fashion shoots. UK fashion loves a bit of rough trade, why do you think that is?
I can’t speak for anyone else, but personally I like realness and photographing boys that haven’t been photographed before. I see a lot of stuff that’s more tongue-in-cheek. Models scallied up a bit doesn’t really work for me.

Where do you find your models?
In the street or shops. I try to constantly keep my eyes open rather than going out just to cast.


From Vanity Teen.

Do they always want to be photographed?
Up north they do, but I get a lot of people saying no in London. I suppose the guys in London that have said no have had tattooed faces and gold teeth. They’re probably not that arsed about getting their photograph in a magazine when they’ve got cars to rob.

What do these boys think of being a part of that fashion side of things?
They are normally pretty chilled out about it. I always imagine they will be pretty awkward about what they’re styled in, but they’re normally not bothered at all. Not that the styling’s been too outlandish in my pictures, but they pretty much get on with it and don’t complain.


Compromise Solution

So you do the styling yourself?
Most of the time I do, or with stylists that I know I can work with.

What is it about looking tough?
I don’t see them as being tough, they just look normal to me. I suppose that’s just how I think guys should look.

Why?
Well, maybe it’s not how they should look, more what I think looks cool.

You have that kind of look about yourself. How would you describe your style?
I think I dress pretty boring. Normally in a plain t-shirt and jeans or trackies. I like hats, though, but normally wear the same one until I lose it.

What do these kids represent for you?
I’d say they represent proper British lads, with a traditional masculine attitude.

The following were shot for this feature.
Bape hoodie, Nike sweater, Nike pants


adidas top, vintage cap, NHS cast

adidas t-shirt, Co-operative designs necklace

Nike top, KR3W cap

Lacoste polo shirt, Casio G-shock watch

PHOTOS: MICHAEL MAYREN
TEXT: WILLIAM OLIVER

TAGGED: Michael Mayren