Vice Style

Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East was a big show because nearly every designer featured by this organisation goes on to be big international news; Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders and Marios Schwab all started here. This is hat designer Nasir Mazhar’s Fashion East debut but he’s already internationally known. Nasir only sells the hats and the accessories, not the clothes, but with the Tekken-like forearm calipers he’s done everything he needs to do to convince us he’s dragging fashion into the present.

"I'm deranged. Deranged my love. I'm deranged down down down."

We said Matrix/industrial fashion was on the comeback and Heikki Salonen delivered. Bowie’s “I’m Deranged“, from his totally underrated mid-90s, period played. The music was great, the models looked like the sort of hard and brainy Russian art girls that live inside my dreams, and the jackets kicked ass.

"And the rain sets in. It's the angel man. I'm deranged."

"The clutch of life and the fist of love. Big deal Salaam. Be real deranged Salaam. Before we reel. I'm deranged."

Michael Van Der Ham makes dresses out of cut-ups from old material, and can’t you tell. Where’s the effort, where’s the love? One of the contributing editors from a very-big-deal fashion mag was just all like, “What’s the point, you know? Balenciaga do it so much better.” Which was pretty funny because they’d probably charge like £4000 for a skirt or something.