Vice Style

In the second of our Bread and Butter interviews we spoke to Ann-Sofie Back is one part creative director of Cheap Monday as well as a designer of her own line. As everyone knows Cheap Monday made their name kitting the world out, in ultra skinny jeans that retail at cheap prices. Currently they're opening shops and launching an underwear line.

Vice: So, to start, let's talk a bit about your background, where did you study and where did you start working?
Ann-Sofie Back: I did an MA at Central Saint Martins in women's wear, before that I did a fashion BA at Beckmans College of Design in Stockholm, Sweden. My first design job was at H&M, in the white room, where I drew prints for all different departments. This was before my time at Beckmans. My first piece was an umbrella print for the German market. It was supposed to be a bit Versace - over the top; gold, red, green with lots of tassels and horseshoes and stuff. I wish I had that umbrella, it was an absolute disgrace! I think it did quite well in the shops though.
       
How long have you been at Cheap Monday? What did you know the brand when you started?
I started in May 2009. I knew Örjan from my time at Acne when he was a buyer for a major youth retailer in Sweden. He used to come up to the office and talk vintage with Johnny at Acne.

I didn't know anything except that the jeans were on everybody's ass in Hoxton and that they were tight and stretchy. I didn't know they had a clothes line as well. I felt I had a lot of freedom and trust from Örjan, I like and respect him as a person.

It must be a buzz designing fashion for people that are definitely going to wear it in the clubs - fashion that people can afford.
Oh, I know nothing about clubs, I'm not very interested in youth culture, to be honest. But yeah, it will be exciting to see now when the first collection I've designed for Cheap Monday is out this spring.

So who is the Cheap Monday customer?     
There is a lot happening with the brand, it's expanding with a shoe line, underwear, sunglasses, baby, and so on. Also, the actual clothes collection will be more differentiated in terms of fashionability, I think the more mature 25 and up customer will also be able to wear it. Also, with more shop in shops in department stores and our own stores opening, you will be able to see the breadth of the collection in a different way. In Sweden the jeans are worn by everyone, the collection has been quite young though, I think.

      
What do you guys have planned for the Bread & Butter event?
We're launching our shoe and underwear lines.
     
I can really see your design influence in the S/S11 collection - there is a more high fashion look. Is it safe to say the shift to a more high fashion influence is here to stay?
Yes, definitely. If this collection is as well received in the stores as it was by the press, then 100%.

       
Are the amazing transparent plastic footwear in the Spring/Summer 11 show gonna be produced for sale?
We hope so, we're looking into it.
       
Brands like Cheap Monday and Acne put Swedish fashion right up there - some trend prediction guys where even calling Stockholm Europe's Tokyo. Does that make sense to you?
There are similarities, I think the more unisex way of dressing is one. But let me tell you, Stockholm is the opposite of exciting. Everyone is very fashionable, but hardly ever original, and it's all very mid-market and chain stores.
       
This may sound strange, but aren't Swedes big into nudism?
Swedish women, I think, are relaxed with nudity, but this also makes dressing less sexy. Like I said, I think Sweden's good at mid-market fashion, very good, as a matter of fact. I'm the exception with the Ann-Sofie Back Atelje line.

What about your own label, is it hard to do both?
Sometimes it's quite stressful. Like now, when I have a show with Back as well as Cheap Monday here in Stockholm in a couple of weeks, and then in February with my mainline Ann-Sofie Back Atelje in London. Most of the time it's fine though. I have great teams in both companies that take a lot responsibility and pressure off.

And lastly, where does the name Cheap Monday come from?
Monday is the day when you have the least money to spend.

Follow Cheap Monday here.

WORDS: DARYOUSH HAJ-NAJAFI

TAGGED: Interview, Cheap Monday